I started making mac ‘n cheese from scratch in the early 1990’s after being introduced to my first vegetarian cookbook – the New Laurel’s Kitchen. I fell fast and deeply in love with the idea of revamping my eating and cooking habits. I had only moved away from home the year before and was living on my own for the first time. Macaroni and cheese was not a far stretch for diving into a meatless diet. (Side note: I’m no longer a vegetarian, but mostly eat a plant-based diet).
Fast forward to fall 2024. This week in particular I’m craving a meal that is comforting to both make and eat, won’t take all night to prepare, and could please a crowd of friends. Enter Deb Perelman’s skillet baked macaroni and cheese. Deb is the talent and voice behind “The Smitten Kitchen,” one of my all-time favorite food blogs. In addition to being an excellent cook and writer, Deb takes great photos that accompany her recipes (in fact, credit to Deb for featured image above – it’s straight from her blog). Her food photos have whet my appetite on many an occasion.
I share with Deb a satisfaction for cooking a recipe with as few dishes as possible (so that there is less to clean). I also love cooking and baking in a cast iron skillet. So, double win here. The trifecta is that you don’t have to boil the pasta in advance, but give it a 10 minute soak.
This recipe calls for three different types of cheese. Don’t let that be a deal breaker. If you’re inspired to make macaroni and cheese from scratch, you might as well go all in on the extra shopping required.
Lastly, if you have a moment to spare, do read Deb’s rumination on creating this recipe and how you can adjust it to favor your flavor preferences (or what’s inside your pantry). Enjoy!
Photo and recipe credit: Deb Perelman, The Smitten Kitchen
Ingredients
- 1/2 cup (30 grams) panko-style breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons (30 grams) plus 3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter
- Kosher salt
- 1/2 pound (8 ounces or 225 grams) dried elbow macaroni
- 1 1/2 cups (6 ounces or 170 grams) coarsely grated sharp white cheddar cheese
- 1 cup (4 ounces or 115 grams) coarsely grated gruyère, comte, jack, gouda, fontina, or raclette
- 1/2 cup (about 2 ounces or 55 grams) finely grated pecorino romano cheese
- 1/4 cup (35 grams) all-purpose flour
- 3 cups milk (710 ml), any kind, or 1 1/2 cups (355 ml) milk, any kind plus 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk
- Many grinds of black pepper
- 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
- A pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg
Directions
Heat oven: To 375°F
Toast the crumbs: In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat and add the breadcrumbs. Toast the crumbs in the butter, stirring, until they’re a light golden brown. Season with a pinch of salt and scrape crumbs into a dish to set aside.
Soak your pasta: Place uncooked pasta in a large bowl and cover with hot tap water. Soak for 10 minutes then drain it, shaking the pasta out.
Make the sauce and assemble: Combine the three cheeses right on the paper or board you’ve grated them onto.
Return your ovenproof skillet to the stove over medium-high heat and melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in it. Add the flour, whisking to combine. Add milk, 1/2 cup at a time, whisking to combine each addition with the butter-flour mixture until smooth. When all milk is added, season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt, many grinds of black pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg, and cook, stirring, until mixture comes to a simmer and begins to thicken. Once simmering, cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring. Turn the burner off.
Setting aside 2/3 cup of the cheese mixture, add the rest of the cheeses to the sauce, stirring just until it has melted. Taste the sauce (carefully!) here and adjust seasonings if needed to taste. Stir in drained pasta until evenly coated. Sprinkle the surface with reserved cheese, followed by the toasted breadcrumbs.
Bake: Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Add another 5 minutes in the oven, if needed for pasta to soften. If you want it a little more browned on top, run the pan briefly under your broiler for a minute.
Serve: Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes, then serve right away.